Gel vs Dip Powder Nails

Acrylics, gels, dip powder, and extensions. There is such a variety of options for manicures, and each type has distinct advantages and disadvantages. In particular, gel nail polish and dip powder—two of the most popular manicure methods—belong in the acrylic-based family, but they differ in a few important ways.

Ahead, the key differences to know between gel and dip powder manicures.

Application process

“The easiest way to tell the difference between gel and dip powder [manicures] is how they are applied,” says manicurist Chelsea King. “With gel, it applies like regular nail polish, and you cure it in a UV or LED lamp after each coat.”

Gel manicure polishes contain photo-initiated polymers, which are activated when exposed to light, says manicurist Ashlie Johnson. Essentially, “these polymers absorb [light] rays,” says cosmetic chemist Ron Robinson, which causes them to “harden, or cure, so that the polish adheres to nails.”

This is most often done with a UV light because it works a bit quicker (usually in under 45 seconds) than LED. Simply put, gel polish is cured onto the nail using light; without UV or LED light, the polish will remain wet.

Dip manicures, on the other hand, “use colored powder acrylic mixed with a glue-type resin that cures in the air,” Johnson explains. The application process is exactly what it sounds like: First, a base or primer coat is painted on, then each nail—while still wet—is dipped into a small pot of colored acrylic powder. Your manicurist (or you, at home) will work in layers. Once the desired level of coverage is reached (usually two or three rounds of dipping is required), an activator polish is brushed on as a topcoat to cure the formula—no UV light required.

Bottom line

Gel polishes are painted on, similar to regular nail polish, and require UV or LED light to harden. Dip powder involves dipping each finger into an acrylic colored powder, then applying an activator polish as a topcoat that cures in the air.

Lasting power

A good gel manicure, when applied correctly, can last for two to three weeks. But for those who have oilier nail beds or are prone to chipping, gel polish may not last for even two weeks.

Dip powder manicures generally last longer than their gel counterparts. Deborah Lippmann, manicurist and founder of the namesake nail-care and color line, says that “dip powders are bonded using a glue called ‘cyanoacrylate,’ which is also the main ingredient in Krazy Glue”—that gives you a sense of just how strong the hardened dip powder formula is.

To get more specific, cyanoacrylates are “a family of strong-acting adhesives,” explains Robinson. Dip powder can be thought of as a glue-based resin that hardens when exposed to air, just like (you guessed it!) actual glue.

In brief, dip powder polymers are stronger than those found in gel polish, so dip manicures typically last longer—up to five weeks, if properly cared for.

Bottom line

Gel manicures usually last between two to three weeks, while dip powder manicures can last up to five, with proper prep, application, and maintenance.

Removal process

The acrylic-like, multilayered (read: thick) nature of dip powder manicures can ensure that they last longer than gel, but this also means they are more difficult to remove.

“Overall, gel polish is much easier to remove than dip powder,” King says. “They both need to be soaked off, but dip powder will take longer.” For gel and dip powder, you’ll want to pencil in at least 30 minutes, either at the nail salon or at home, to get the job done.

The removal processes for both options are similar: First, the top layer of polish is gently sloughed off with a coarse nail file, then the nails are soaked in an acetone solution. For gels, this can be done using acetone-soaked cotton balls, but it is necessary to directly soak fingers in a bowl of acetone to remove dip powder; typically, your nails will need to be submerged between 10 and 20 minutes.

Bottom line

Dip powder takes longer to dissolve and remove than gel polish because of its thick, multilayered, acrylic-like nature.

Potential damage to nails

Impatience during the removal process can result in nail damage with gel polish and dip powder. “Both manicures have the potential for damaging your nail beds, especially in the removal process,” says Lippmann. “A lot of people get impatient with the amount of time it takes for the gel to dissolve, and they end up pulling the polish off, which ends up damaging the nail.”

Sanitation

“My biggest issue with dip powder is how sanitary it is,” King says. “For it to be sanitary, the powder needs to be in a separate container that your finger is dipped in, or sprinkled over a separate container, and any leftover powder in that container you used should be disposed of afterward.”

When this sanitary protocol is followed in the salon as it should be, a significant amount of leftover powder is discarded. In this sense, dip powder manicures can be wasteful, which is precisely why some salons cut corners and use an unsanitary, communal dipping pot.

Even though your nails will have been (or should have been) properly cleaned and sanitized before the base coat of polish is applied, communal pots can never be fully sanitary. Says Catherine Troisi, an infectious disease epidemiologist at the University of Texas School of Public Health in Houston, “There are other things that could be in there, [like] bacteria, and even if you’re washing your hands before, it’s just still not a good idea.”

And, Troisi continues, “you may have little cuts on your fingers, [especially] if they’ve trimmed the cuticles first.” Small cuts like that can increase your risk of infection.

In short, “you should never be going to a nail salon that would have you dip your finger into a communal jar,” Johnson says. Obviously, this is not a concern if you are using an at-home dip powder kit on your own.

Another option: Bring your own personal jar of dip powders to the salon with you, Johnson says. This way you’ll know with certainty that your fingers are the only ones being dipped into the pot.

Bottom line

Always avoid dipping your nails into a communal powder pot because this can be unsanitary.

Cost and time

It’s difficult to estimate the cost for either type of manicure as it depends on several factors, including the salon’s location and the nail technician’s level of experience. Typically, dip powder manicures may be slightly more expensive than gel. This is because dip manicures last longer than gel, so you won’t need to go back to the salon as often.

Both types of manicures, when done professionally, take roughly 45 minutes to complete.