I Finally Learned How to Apply Concealer on My Deep-Set Eyes
Experts share how to get a smooth, crease-free finish.
My deep-set eyes are a gift from my grandmother, passed down to me through my mother. And as much as I love seeing the two of them reflected in me, I don’t love the way my undereye makeup creases or disappears into the hollow shadows framing my eyes. Turns out I’m not imagining it.
Deep-set eyes are “less projected, meaning that they sit further back in your orbital cavity, the boney socket that houses your eyes,” says Melissa Doft, MD, a board-certified plastic surgeon in New York. Visually this can result in a crease underneath the eye area, plus a sunken and darkened look.
Because of this, I have been searching for the best way to brighten my eyes without permanently changing my face. Sure, fillers or an eye lift could instantly (albeit temporarily) smooth the appearance of the under-eye area, but, with results that last up to two years, this requires a different level of commitment. And, of course, makeup is a great way to minimize the look of undereye shadows, but with deep-set eyes, it’s not as easy as just swiping on concealer and walking out the door.
Here, experts share the ultimate makeup tips for brightening the shadows and softening the hollows of deep-set eyes, along with the best products to use along the way.
Meet the experts:
Melissa Doft, MD is a board-certified plastic surgeon
Andrea DiSabatino is a New York-based makeup artist
Danessa Myricks is a makeup artist and founder of Danessa Myricks Beauty
Vincent Oquendo is a Los-Angeles based makeup artist
How to prep and prime your undereye area
Before rushing to apply copious amounts of concealer… pause for a moment. Deep-set eyes or not, the skin under your eyes is thin, so it needs proper moisture before any makeup is applied otherwise the product will settle into crevices. The pros recommend using a hydrating product with a light texture—so it sinks into the skin quickly—to prime the skin under your eyes. While there are a few products called “undereye primer,” your favorite moisturizer or eye cream under your eyes also works well. (Always tap in product versus rubbing since this skin is delicate in this area.)
Once skin is plump and moisturized, then you can begin brightening any shadows. (Keep your concealer on standby!) “Someone with deep-set eyes may see a little darkness under their eyes, but the darkness could be just coming from the shadow that the natural curves of their face create,” says makeup artist Danessa Myricks. Whether that’s the case or you’re dealing with actual dark circles, Myricks and Andrea DiSabatino, a New York-based makeup artist, stress color-correcting as a key step in doing makeup for deep-set eyes. “Color correction can feel scary because it seems so complex,” says Myricks, but it’s as simple as basic color theory. (Remember the color wheel?) Since dark circles tend to be blue or purple, you’ll want to cancel this out with “orange pigment, ranging from light peach to a deeper red-orange to address that,” says Myricks. The darker your skin tone, the darker the shade of your color corrector should be.
The best way to apply concealer
Now that your skin is properly prepped, it’s time to apply concealer. But you need one with a texture that’s just right: Myricks says to avoid using a concealer that’s too thin because it won’t provide enough coverage, and is prone to sliding around; concealer that’s too thick can be hard to blend and will sit on top of the skin making it look too heavy. A medium coverage, creamy consistency is just right.
Once you find the right formula, Myricks suggests picking a concealer that is one to two shades lighter than your complexion to help brighten any darkness.
As for the best, seamless application, DiSabatino recommends using a fluffy concealer brush and sweeping the product outward from the corner of the eye for a lifting effect.
How to set and bake your concealer
Once I have addressed the darkness underneath my eyes with color corrector and concealer, I want it to stay that way — and not settle into the creases of my eyes. Myricks reminds me that “those bends and folds are a natural part of the personality of the face” but setting your concealer with powder can help soften any lines.
It’s important to approach setting powder with a light hand. Oftentimes, in an effort to cover, correct, and smooth, people use way too much product. “The more product that you use, the more likely it’s going to crack as soon as you start smiling or talking,” says Myricks. She recommends starting with a thin layer of powder, then building it up as needed to cover the crease.
Baking (applying a layer of powder and letting it sit for five to ten minutes) can provide even more coverage according to makeup artist Vincent Oquendo. While doing my makeup at an event Oquendo shared a tip that he learned from model Winnie Harlow. “Take a damp beauty blender and use it to press in the powder underneath your eyes. Let it sit for a few minutes then wipe away the excess with a fluffy brush,” says Oquendo.
How to brighten deep-set eyes with eyeliner
To avoid exaggerating the darkness underneath your eyes, skip dark eyeliner on your bottom lash line. Instead, DiSabatino recommends using white eyeliner along your waterline to create the illusion of bigger eyes that stand out more.
Having naturally big eyes, I swapped my black pencil for a softer shade of brown pencil to line my waterline. I love that it gives me the same smoky effect without emphasizing any darkness in the undereye area.
Following these steps will help to conceal, correct, and smooth the look of the skin underneath deep-set eyes. But, as always, when it comes to makeup, “It’s not about erasing,” says Myricks. “We can subtly blur, take the attention away from the imperfections, and create more balance in the face, but loving your features and working with them is key.”
