Skin care involves a constant game of trial and error. 

It’s parallel to finding the right blush shade for your undertone, your go-to lippie, or the best powder to set your base in place before you land on a favorite. Sunscreen, in this case, is no different—but when your skin’s moisture barrier is compromised, finding a sunscreen you would want to wear every day can be a tricky task.

If you have dry skin, an incompatible formula can leave your skin feeling uncomfortably tight or accentuate flaky patches under makeup. In pursuit of finding the perfect sunscreen that works well for people with dry skin, Allure Philippines sat down in an exclusive interview with board-certified dermatologist Raissa Francisco-Pasion, MD, FPDS, on the ingredients that help support the skin barrier and the formulas that offer protection without leaving skin feeling tight or flaky.

Look for moisturizing ingredients 

Dr. Francisco-Pasion encourages Filipinos to take a moment to check the ingredient list. “I would look for humectants—ingredients that lock in moisture—such as glycerin and , which attract and hold water in the stratum corneum, and barrier-supporting lipids such as ceramides, cholesterol and fatty acids,” she explains. “Emollients such as squalane, dimethicone, or shea butter can also make a sunscreen more comfortable on dry skin.”

Beware of ingredients that can strip the skin

Dr. Francisco-Pasion advises being mindful of denatured alcohol, commonly listed as alcohol denat. “Brands frequently use it to make sunscreens dry down instantly. But it can be incredibly stripping for someone who already lacks natural oils,” she says.

She also recommends avoiding products that contain salicylic acid or heavy mattifying agents, as they are intended to manage excess oil and may aggravate flakiness on already dry skin. 

Lastly, fragrance is another consideration. “Dry skin often goes hand-in-hand with a barrier, [so] it is wise to skip heavily fragranced options to avoid irritation.”

Remember that formulation matters more than filters—sometimes

“The actual vehicle of the product—meaning whether it is a rich cream or a drying gel—matters significantly more than whether the UV filters are mineral or chemical,” says Dr. Francisco-Pasion. She lists creams and moisturizing fluid formulations as a good starting point for dry skin, rather than very lightweight gels or alcohol-heavy sprays.

“And if the sunscreen itself is sufficiently moisturizing, you don’t necessarily need a separate moisturizer. That’s often my preferred approach for patients who want a simpler morning routine,” she adds.

But if you have significantly dry and flaky skin, Dr. Francisco-Pasion advises not to expect sunscreen to fix it. “If the [skin] barrier is compromised, moisturize first and give it a little time to settle, then apply sunscreen generously and evenly.” 

She also notes that if your dry skin is also reactive or prone to eczema, the type of filter may make a difference. “For these patients, mineral sunscreens containing zinc oxide and titanium dioxide are often the better choice,” she says. “Chemical filters can sometimes cause stinging or trigger allergic flare-ups when applied to a cracked, compromised skin barrier.”

But if you don’t have or any significant sensitivity, either mineral or chemical sunscreen can work—the key, as always, is to find a formula that keeps your skin comfortable.

Pexels

Look beyond the SPF number

For those also concerned with pigmentation and premature aging, she also advises them to use 50+ products with strong broad-spectrum and UVA protection. 

“Broad-spectrum protection is more important than simply chasing the highest number,” says the dermatologist. “SPF primarily reflects protection against Ultraviolet B (UVB), while Ultraviolet A (UVA) contributes significantly to photoaging, pigmentation, and other forms of photodamage. So I want a sunscreen that gives good UVA as well as UVB protection.” 

Note that a dewy finish doesn’t necessarily mean hydration

As the dermatologist explains, “dewy” is a cosmetic description of how a product reflects light, often thanks to surface oils and film-forming ingredients—and that a sunscreen can give you a radiant glow on top without doing anything to actually repair a compromised skin barrier. In short, a sunscreen claiming a dewy finish doesn’t automatically equate to fixing a compromised skin barrier that lacks moisture.

“On the flip side, modern cosmetic chemistry is incredibly advanced, so a product can have a completely natural finish while still being packed with invisible, high-performing hydrators like ceramides, glycerin, and hyaluronic acid.” To achieve true relief from dryness, she says that it’s imperative to look past the surface shine and check the actual ingredient list.

Apply sunscreen generously

And as a final takeaway: sunscreen has its limits if you’re not applying enough. Studies have repeatedly shown that using less significantly reduces the protection achieved. “A very high can provide some margin for real-world underapplication—but it does not compensate for applying a tiny amount.” 

This advice is supported by a 2022 study from the National Library of Medicine, which found that the amount of sunscreen applied affected the level of UV protection achieved. Researchers observed that sunscreen protection decreased as application amounts fell below the standard used for testing—approximately 2 mg/cm². In other words, even if you choose a high-SPF formula, applying too little can leave your skin with less protection than the label suggests.