Gel Extensions, Builder Gel, or Acrylics? Your Complete Guide to Nail Extensions
Two Filipino nail artists break down the pros, cons, and best uses for each extension system, while dermatologists share insights on nail health in between appointments.
About two years ago, I discovered the joy of gel extensions manicure…and boy, have I been hooked. At this point, I can barely remember what my complete set of healthy bare nails look like. Every time I promise myself I’ll grow them out naturally and give them a breather, I cave and text my nail tech. Case in point: as I type this, I have three stubborn pink extensions from a set I got in Vietnam two months ago (what a sturdy set, right?), while the rest of my nails are painfully bare from breakage.
Before this particular set, I had a buttery yellow builder gel set for summer that lasted over a month. And it got me wondering: what exactly makes these nail systems different? I’ve tried gel extensions and builder gel myself, but I wanted answers from the pros.
So, I turned to two Filipino nail artists: Mimi Qiu Reyes, a celebrity nail artist who’s been in the industry for 17 years with formal training in Hong Kong and at Bandi Nails Academy in Gangnam, South Korea,and Sajm Candano, a nail technician who’s been experimenting with gel systems since 2018 and finally opened her own home-based studio in San Juan in 2023 after years of self-taught practice. Together, they broke down the differences. Bonus: I threw acrylics into the mix for good measure.
Gel extensions
“Gel extensions [are] essentially a ready-made soft gel extension that’s applied with gel adhesive,” Reyes explains. “It’s lightweight and convenient, but it is still plastic and can feel less natural.”
Candano believes that it’s “perfect for someone who wants long nails but doesn’t have time to grow them out.” Compared to acrylics, this is a quicker and “less aggressive” option, she adds.
The process usually takes around an hour, from prep to UV curing, and lasts about two to three weeks. In my case, sometimes, the set would last more than a month. Sometimes, it would only last less than two weeks. It depends on the application. Downsides? Because gel extensions tips are plastic, improper application can trap moisture and lead to fungal issues, Reyes warns.
Builder gel
If you want strength without the bulk, builder gel is your best bet. “[It’s] a soak-off gel that’s applied directly on the natural nail and sculpted for strength,” says Reyes, who favors it as her go-to recommendation for most clients. “It looks and feels very natural, and it grows out beautifully,” she shares.
Candano, meanwhile, works with both BIAB (Builder in a Bottle) and Hard Gel for this system. “Both BIAB and Hard Gel help reinforce weak or brittle nails by creating an apex, which reduces the risk of breakage,” she explains.
The main difference, Candano explains, comes down to how they’re applied and removed. BIAB is quicker and easier to put on, while hard gel takes more precision during application. When it’s time to take them off, BIAB can be soaked off with acetone, but hard gel needs to be carefully filed down with a drill.
Either way, builder gel can last three to four weeks, and “can be infilled without removing anything,” Reyes notes. The cons? If it’s applied too thick or unevenly, it can feel bulky and may even start lifting at the edges.
Nonetheless, Reyes believes builder gel suits “busy professionals or active clients who want strength with a natural look.”
Acrylics
Acrylics have been around the longest, but both artists acknowledge they’re trickier to work with. “Acrylics are a powder-and-liquid system that hardens on the nail,” Reyes says. “They tend to look bulkier and have that distinct chemical smell during application.”
Reyes explains that with acrylics, the nail is prepped first, then a liquid and powder are mixed together and shaped directly onto the nail, where the mixture sets quickly. Application takes one hour and 30 minutes to two hours, and while acrylics last three to four weeks, frequent refills are often needed to keep them looking fresh, according to Reyes.
Candano, who doesn’t offer and recommends acrylics unless the client specifically asks for it, says they “tend to be more abrasive on the nail bed.” Aside from the smell, Reyes also notes that material is not breathable and can feel heavy on the nails.
Risks, maintenance, and matching to lifestyle
All systems require regular upkeep every three to four weeks. Both Reyes and Candano stress the importance of professional application and removal to avoid nail trauma. “DIYing it at home can lead to major complications,” warns Candano. I agree, and trust me, I would know. I’ve lost count of how many times my nail beds have suffered because I couldn’t wait to see my nail tech and ended up peeling off or breaking the extensions myself once they started lifting (ouch!).
As for who each type is for? According to our nail artists, gel extensions are for frequent changers who want quick length. Builder gel is for anyone who values strength with a natural finish. Acrylics are for lovers of dramatic, extra-long nails who don’t mind the maintenance.
Nail health between appointments
Of course, even the sturdiest and most beautiful sets need to be balanced with proper nail care. “Our nails are actually a specialized part of the skin,” says board-certified dermatologist Ada Atilano-Bautista, MD, head dermatologist at PROFERO Ageless Aesthetics with more than 17 years of experience in both aesthetic and pathologic dermatology. In other words, they deserve as much attention as the rest of your skin.
As someone whose nails have often been damaged from lifting extensions, I can attest that the process isn’t always kind to the natural nail. “The filing and chemicals found in gel polishes, acrylics, nail extensions can thin and weaken the nail plate, making it prone to splitting or lifting,” Dr. Atilano-Bautista explains.
And the risks don’t stop there. “The surrounding skin (nail fold) can also be exposed to compounds such as methacrylates and acrylates which commonly cause allergic contact dermatitis,” warns board-certified dermatologist Claudine Yap Silva, MD, associate professor at the UP College of Medicine and chair of the Philippine Dermatological Society’s Hair and Nail Subspecialty Core Group. “Increase in the amount of time the nails are soaked in acetone or other chemicals can make the skin dry,” she adds.
This doesn’t mean you have to completely give up nail extensions or gel polish, it just means your nails need breaks to recover. “Give your nails at least 2 weeks off every couple of manicure/pedicure cycles,” advises Dr. Atilano-Bautista.
Dr. Silva, meanwhile, usually encourages her patients to rest their nails “for as long as they can tolerate not using nail cosmetics or nail gels.” But if you really want (or need) to keep up your extensions or gel polish, there are still healthy habits to follow. “Do not peel off nail gels. Soak according to instructions, use wooden or silicone pushers, and avoid scraping the bare nail plate,” she says.
Choosing what works best for you
Gel extensions, builder gel, and acrylics all have their pros and cons. But what matters most is choosing what best suits your lifestyle. And remember: caring for your natural nails underneath should still be the priority.
