Learning How to Apply Fake Nails Truly Couldn’t Be Any Easier

When you’re learning how to apply fake nails, there isn’t so much a learning curve as there is a straight line because it’s really that easy. That’s why it never made sense to me that press-on fake nails are often passed up in favor of gel polishes and nail extensions, but experts have long relied on them for many reasons.

Take nail artist Eun Kyung Park, for example, who keeps a full closet of fake nails on hand for quick nail art changes on herself and her celebrity clients. Fashion Week veterans Gina Edwards and Miss Pop often hand-paint fake nails for their runway nail art. Fake nails are everywhere, and they’re far more ubiquitous than even the most researched manicure devotee would think.

When used correctly, fake nails can pass for your natural nails and allow for endless experimentation (with minimal nail damage). Depending on how you apply press-on fake nails, they can last anywhere between a few short hours and two whole weeks. But whether you’re going for a look that lasts for one night or for the longest haul possible, there are a few important rules you must follow, according to manicurists.

Meet the experts:

Gina Edwards, a nail artist in New York City

Miss Pop, a nail artist in New York City

Eun Kyung Park, a nail artist in Seoul, South Korea and founder of Unistella nail salon

Hadley King, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City

How to pick the right fake nail size

Just like shoes in a department store, you need to make sure fake nails fit by trying them on before committing to them. As Edwards points out, most nail brands emboss little numbers on the back of their press-on fake nails so you can easily figure out which sizes are best suited to you — paying attention to them and remembering your sizes can cut a lot of time out of your process.

All three nail artists interviewed agree that the edges of a fake nail should lie flush up against the edges of your natural nail. If a press-on nail is too small, it’ll be prone to lifting and may pop off before you want it to. If you have a nail that’s in-between sizes, reach for a fake nail that’s slightly too big — Miss Pop says there’s an easy way to fix that after it’s been applied. “If you size up and it looks ginormous, file along the free edge of your natural nail to suit the shape of your tip,” she says. Most press-on nail packs come with a nail file; put it to use to get the most seamless fit possible.

How to prep for fake nails

Sizing fake nails correctly determines how natural they’ll look, but how well you prep nails before applying them will determine how long they last. Before putting on the nails you’ve selected, Park advises pushing your cuticles back, especially if you want your press-ons to last for a while. Then, she says, check your natural nails for oil.

Oil, whether it comes from your skin or the cream you use to push back cuticles, is a fake nail’s worst enemy. So — and I know this is going to sound weird coming from a beauty magazine — you need to dehydrate your nail beds. “Use alcohol to wipe, dust, and cleanse nail beds,” Edwards advises. Miss Pop does the same thing with a quick swipe of nail polish remover. If you really want to get professional, you can even buy a bottle of nail cleanser, such as the Deborah Lippmann 2 Second Nail Primer.

How to apply fake nails with adhesive tabs

Chances are, any fake nail pack you purchase will come with glue or double-sided adhesive tabs (or both). Picking the right one for you completely depends on why you’re using fake nails in the first place. If your goal is to be able to change your manicure at the drop of a hat, follow Park’s advice. “I use press-ons for matching nails to my style for everyday use, like choosing an outfit,” she says. “I always use double-sided tapes. The tapes I use last for about seven hours without any problem.”

Miss Pop likes tapes too, because they leave more time for experimentation. “I have no patience for soaking off nails on myself,” she says. “And I love to switch it up.”

Though you can apply the adhesive tab to the back of the fake nail before pressing it onto your natural nail, Edwards prefers applying it directly to the natural nail instead because “you can see any imperfection when you apply the tabs versus applying to the tip.”

The most challenging part of applying fake nails with adhesive tabs, Edwards continues, is selecting the right size adhesive tab for each finger. “You should leave a small open margin around the tab, exposing a bit of your nail plate,” she explains. When the correct size tab is applied directly to your nail, the perimeter of space around the tab should look like a picture frame. “The tab should not come close to the cuticle groove, which will promote lifting right away,” she says. “The idea is to create a suction seal.”

How to apply fake nails with glue

Those of us who aren’t working on runways and photoshoots generally need nails with more lasting power, though, and that’s where glue comes in. According to Edwards, fake nails that are glued on can last up to two weeks — that is, if you size, prep, and glue them on properly. If you want to get really technical with your gluing process, use a glue that has a brush applicator like Miss Pop does for the most even and precise placement possible.

Even if you prefer to use a fake nail pack’s complimentary glue tube, you can still use Miss Pop’s go-to gluing method. Rather than smacking a dollop of glue directly onto the nail, she paints glue onto the back side of the fake nail. “Leave a little [space] on the sides bare, so the glue can set and spread without attaching to your skin,” she advises. “Wait for the glue to air-dry a bit and get tacky — just a handful of seconds.” Once the glue reaches that sticky sweet spot, she lines the nail up with the tip of the natural nail and presses it down “like a see-saw from the free edge.” It’s not a dissimilar process to applying false eyelashes.

How to make fake nails last longer

If you’re trying to have your fake nails last for a week or longer, the best thing you can do is to avoid getting your hands wet when you can, according to Miss Pop. You can’t always avoid washing your hands, but if you need to do the dishes or wash your hair, she recommends wearing gloves while you do it (that is if you’re willing to go to extremes for a long-lasting press-on manicure). And, obviously, put your cuticle oil away — it’ll break down the glue.

How to remove fake nails

The fake nail removal process ultimately depends on whether you used nail tapes versus glue. Nail tapes are easier to remove and only require a warm water soak, nail oil, and a gentle tug. In fact, Miss Pop says she usually takes hers off after a long shower. “Don’t try to rip them off side to side; it can hurt,” she warns. Instead, she says to pull the nail down and outward.

For glue-on nails, however, patience is key if you want to keep your natural nails strong. Miss Pop recommends clipping the excess length at the tip and soaking them off “like you would a gel manicure with foil, cotton balls, and an acetone-based remover.”

No matter which application and removal process you choose, your nails will be in much better shape after wearing fake press-ons, than gel or acrylic nails. “There is no damage to your nails upon removal of the tapes or glue,” Edwards says. New York City board-certified dermatologist Hadley King, MD, warns that adhesives like nail glue do pose a risk of an allergic reaction or even infection, though. “Any space between the nail plate and the artificial nail can trap moisture, setting up an environment where bacteria, yeast, and fungi can grow,” she explains.

That being said, it’s safest to throw away fake nails after they’ve been removed. Still, you can go ahead and rip open the next pack of press-on nails for the night — or the whole week — and have all the nail art fun without the guilt or long-term commitment.