How to Achieve a Long-Lasting Gel Nail Set, According to a Celebrity Nail Artist
Wondering why your gel nails keep breaking so easily? Celebrity nail artist Mimi Qiu explains why.
By Liam Sanchez
Gel manicures are all the rage now, evident in the number of nail salons offering gel nail services popping up on almost every corner, and the number of nail artists gaining celebrity status of their own. But finding the nail artist you can trust to achieve the nail inspo you show them, while prioritizing nail health at the same time, is not easy. And in this economy, the last thing anyone wants is a manicure that starts chipping, or worse, a nail that breaks off before the week is over.
Sought-after nail artist Mimi Qiu Reyes of Mimi Luxury Nails, whose clients include some of the country’s biggest stars like Catriona Gray, Bea Alonzo, and Anne Curtis, in a one-on-one with Allure Philippines, shares her expert tips on achieving a long-lasting gel nail set, and how to tell if you’ve actually gotten a good gel manicure.
How do nail shape and length affect the structure of gel nail extensions?
If the nail is too short, we cannot put [very] long [extensions] because it’s not balanced.
But if the nails are [naturally] long, we can put additional [extensions]. So, all the time, we need to see if the nail is short or long.
But we cannot put more than 50 percent of the [original] length of the nail. And the perfect shape for the extension is always almond, so that it’s more feminine.
How important is nail prep in achieving the perfect gel nail set?
Before we apply the gel, we need to clean all the oil [in the nails], because our nails have oil and water. So, we use a cleanser to clean the nail surface. This helps to avoid the gel to be [easily] removed on the fingertip.
For my salon and my personal [use], I use Bandi. It is a Korean brand, and it’s all organic.
How do you decide between soft gel, builder gel, or hard gel?
Personally, I use organic gel, because it’s breathable and long-lasting. So, the prep and the application are very important. If the application is not good, it will not last over two weeks. But if the application is good, it [can last] for 4 weeks to more than 6 weeks.
What is the proper nail cuticle preparation?
We never remove the cuticles—it’s very important. Because when you apply, if you remove the cuticles, the nails will be damaged. Even Koreans, they don’t cut the cuticles, not like [us] in the Philippines.
So in Korea and in my salon, in my practice, we don’t remove the cuticles. We just push it back and we just grill it a little bit.
What is the correct way to layer gel so that it’s strong?
The first step is cleaning the surface of the nails, so that there’s no water and oil. It’s very important in prep to avoid oil, because if your fingernails have oil, the gel won’t stick. And we need to remove the dust. That’s why I have the brush always to remove the dust.
How do you execute intricate nail art designs without compromising the structure?
I make sure that when I’m layering the gel, I put each layer in the UV nail lamp, and I do it right away.
What should clients do in the first 24 hours after getting their gel manicure appointment?
Actually, nothing, because it’s already supposed to be strong. There’s nothing more to do. There should really be no problem, they can do what they want.
But always wash your hands, because sometimes when we touch a lot of things, it [the gel] suddenly comes off. To keep it from coming off and keep the shine, we can always wash our hands or [sanitize with] alcohol.
What are the immediate signs that the gel manicure is not good?
You will know that the gel set doesn’t work, because it will stick to your hair. That’s when you’ll know that it’s already broken after one week. That’s the cost when the gel is applied and the cuticle comes off—it sticks and comes off immediately.
How do you balance aesthetics and practicality?
Personally, before, I really liked O.A (over the top) designs, but lately, [I like] the more practical and minimalistic nail [designs] and shapes like short almond, oval, and short square.
Those are more practical. But if you have ganap, of course, it’s okay to have long nails. But for everyday, it’s better to have mid-length nails.
Frequently Asked Questions
According to celebrity nail artist Mimi Qiu Reyes, a well-executed gel manicure should last a minimum of two weeks, with a correctly prepared and applied set lasting four to six weeks or longer. The primary factors determining longevity are surface preparation — removing all oil and moisture from the nail before application — and the quality of the gel layering technique. Poor prep is the most common reason a gel set fails within the first week.
No. Mimi Qiu Reyes explicitly advises against removing cuticles, noting that doing so can damage the nail and compromise the integrity of the gel application. Her practice — consistent with Korean nail care standards she references — involves pushing the cuticle back and lightly buffing the area rather than cutting or removing it. Leaving the cuticle intact protects the nail matrix and helps the gel adhere more securely at the base.
The clearest early indicator, according to Mimi Qiu Reyes, is the gel catching on hair — a sign the surface has already begun to lift or break down within the first week. This typically happens when the cuticle area was not properly prepared before application, allowing the gel to peel away at the base. A well-applied set should show no lifting, chipping, or surface tackiness within the first two weeks of wear.
Mimi Qiu Reyes says that a properly applied gel set requires no special aftercare in the first 24 hours — the nails should be strong and wearable immediately. She recommends washing hands regularly or using alcohol-based sanitizer to maintain shine and prevent the gel from loosening through contact with oily surfaces or residue. No soaking, gloves, or activity restrictions are necessary if the application was executed correctly.
Mimi Qiu Reyes currently favors short almond, oval, and short square shapes for practical, everyday wear — a shift from the more elaborate, lengthier sets she preferred earlier in her career. For gel extensions, she follows a structural rule: extensions should never exceed 50 percent of the original nail’s natural length, as longer extensions on short natural nails create an imbalance that increases the risk of breakage. For formal occasions or events, longer styles remain appropriate.
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