Transform Lip Color with Brown Liner

Swiping on a few coats of your favorite lip color before heading out the door is par for the course for many of us. But what if I told you there’s a step you may be missing that could kick things up a notch?

You’ve likely seen celebs (like Cardi B and Victoria Monét) or influencers (such as Afnan Dano and Shayla Mitchell) with gorgeous, multidimensional color on their lips. And if you’re wondering how they’re able to achieve it, well, the answer is simple: brown lip liner.

“The history of a perfect brown lip liner goes back to a time when not all cosmetics were suited for all skin tones — but a great solid brown lip liner was always tried and true,” says Chanel makeup artist Tasha Reiko Brown. “On lighter tones, it creates definition around the mouth by using it as a blurred drop shadow. On deeper skin tones, the same is true, but you can also use it to balance uneven lip color by filling in your entire lip.” In short, it’s a versatile product that works for everyone.

I started using brown lip liner well over a decade ago — almost by mistake. I was at a beauty supply outlet store in San Francisco, picking up a few random products. As I was checking out, the cashier offered me a free sample of a deep brown liner. Once I got back to my friend’s place, I was eager to give it a try.

While I initially thought I’d use it with neutral lipsticks, my signature lip color has always been red, so I paired the two. The result, to my surprise, was a sultry, ombré finish — and from that moment on, I was hooked. Since then, I’ve worn brown lip liner with a rainbow of different lipstick shades and I’ve yet to find a color that it doesn’t complement.

Ahead, makeup artists share how to find the right shade of brown liner and the best way to apply it, plus some local recommendations to get the look.

How to Find the Right Brown Lip Liner

Envato Images

“A great place to begin is by finding a shade that matches your lip color, but is a few shades deeper,” says Donni Davy, Euphoria’s head makeup artist. “Depending on your complexion, these shades [of brown] might range from a medium pink-peach to mauve-taupe, or espresso-black.”

Some great options: Rare Beauty’s Kind Words Lipliner in Talented for a peachy brown, Sunnies Face’s Lip Tracer in Nudie for an almond nude brown, and Issy’s Lip Tracer in Low-key for a deep espresso-brown.

However, don’t get too hung up on trying to find a “correct combo.” Brown is not only a universal shade, but is also ultra-forgiving. “You don’t have to match the tone of your liner to your overall lip color, lipstick, or gloss,” says Davy.

You can even layer two or more colors to create a unique look. For example, mixing GRWM Cosmetics’ Lip Countour in Truffle Lover and New Classic gives a perfect red brown combination that’s perfect to pair with a rose-colored lipstick.

How to Apply Brown Lip Liner

Envato Images

Pairing a brown liner with a vibrant coral or electric Barbie pink lipstick may seem outrageous, but the result proves otherwise. Here’s how to do it.

Step 1: Reach for a dull lip pencil.

Both Brown and Davy agree that when it comes to lip pencils, the duller, the better. If a lip liner is too sharp, the finish may look harsh — or the line may be too fine. “I love soft diffusion on the edges of lips,” Brown shares. “When I’m using just a brown lip liner as sort of a drop shadow that will sit behind the lip color, [a diffused line] helps make lips authentically look fuller.”

Step 2: Line the lips.

Hold off on applying lip balm. “For staying power, I like to line on drier lips,” Brown says. “If lips are too hydrated or have too much slip to them, it prevents the waxy liner from creating a bond with the lip. It will sort of float on top of the emollient lip balm.”

Follow along the perimeter of your lips. “Then, on the sides of the lip, top, and bottom, sketch the liner inwards towards the [center] of your lips,” Brown shares. This helps to blend the color versus creating a distinct border.

Step 3 (optional): Diffuse the color.

If you used a liner that was too sharp, or applied too much product, grab a small, angled makeup brush, to soften the liner color towards the center of the lips. This is a great tip to follow when pairing a brown liner with a sheer gloss to achieve a blended finish. “I think it looks more artful, glam, and a tiny bit lived in,” says Davy. “Your lips will look luscious and full.”

You can also follow this step to ensure a smooth base before applying your lip color over top. “When I’m doing a bold lip look, this helps get a [consistent] color across the entire lip,” says Brown.

Step 4: Layer a lipstick or gloss on top.

“I apply the lipstick or gloss to the center of the lips and blend outward,” says Brown. “This ensures that all the beautiful shadowing I’ve done with the brown lip liner doesn’t soften too much.” And voilà — you’ll be left with a gorgeous ombré finish.

For a little extra oomph, “pop a lighter shade in the center of your lips for a little more dimension,” says Davy.