In recent years, people have been buzzing about the concept of skinification—a movement that extends the principles of skin care to other areas of our bodies. And nowhere has this idea gained more traction than in the realm of scalp care. To help us understand skinification better, Allure Philippines reached out to Maria Franchesca S. Quinio-Calayag, MD, a board-certified dermatologist and dermatopathologist with expertise in scalp health. Joining Dr. Quinio-Calayag is board-certified dermatologist Raissa Francisco-Pasion, MD, a fellow of the Philippine Dermatological Society.

What does the “skinification” of the scalp even mean?

“The scalp has long been overlooked in hair care—until ‘skinification’ came in,” shares Dr. Quinio-Calayag. The concept is simple: the scalp, much like our skin, requires consistent care. “‘Skinifying’ the scalp started as a self-care movement, gaining traction in 2023. It emphasizes treating the scalp with the same level of care and attention we give our skin,” explains the dermatologist.

Dr. Francisco-Pasion expands on this, noting, “The recent popularity of Japanese and Korean hair spas, as well as consumer’s interest in scalp health, has led to the term ‘skinification of the scalp.’ It’s a novel term used when active ingredients typically found in skin care—such as hyaluronic acid, collagen, salicylic acid, peptides, and niacinamide—are introduced into formulations of hair care products.”

Dr. Quinio-Calayag adds that there’s a reason why the scalp, in particular, benefits from skinifying: “The scalp is the foundation of healthy hair,” she says. “Skinifying focuses on nourishing, protecting, and revitalizing the scalp and the hair follicles—which you can do through proper cleansing, massaging, and using targeted products and sun protection.”

How can skinification be good for my scalp, and by extension, my hair?

“Skinification helps improve scalp health by enhancing hydration, whether for dry, flaky, or oily scalps,” answers Dr. Quinio-Calayag. “And when the scalp is healthy, medications can work better to address hair fall and hair loss.” With this in mind, it’s important to note that skinifying is not a catch-all solution—what it does is complement the proper diagnosis and medication given by dermatologists, which are still most important when it comes to managing scalp conditions.

If you’re experiencing dryness, for example, “It’s important to differentiate the cause—whether it is from a dry scalp or skin conditions such as seborrheic dermatitis and psoriasis,” says Dr. Francisco-Pasion. “A dermatologist can help you figure out which condition you have.”

In 2015, Larissa, 33, from Makati was diagnosed with scalp psoriasis. For the past 10 years, she’s been managing the itchy scales that form on her scalp, flare-ups that are normally triggered by “stress, weather changes, and an increase of sugary foods in my diet.” 

She shares, “Even before skinifying was a thing, my dermatologist taught me to approach scalp care with the same kind of meticulousness as I do my skin care.” While a dermatologist-prescribed steroid is her primary medication, she reinforces treatment with skinifying habits: “As much as possible, I don’t expose my scalp to heat, which means I hardly style my hair. I limit any leave-in product application to my strands, and I’ve always used sulfate-free shampoos and conditioners because these are not drying,” she says.

How do I get started with “skinifying” my scalp?

  1. Read the labels.

Just like how you pore over your moisturizer’s ingredients list, Dr. Quinio-Calayag stresses the importance of reading labels of shampoos, conditioners, and other hair care products. Dr. Francisco-Pasion adds, “For dry hair, products that utilize the humectant or water-attracting properties of hyaluronic acid can be used to help the hair and scalp stay hydrated.” 

“In my skin care routine, hyaluronic acid works well,” shares Larissa. I encountered that same ingredient in a local hair product, Human Nature’s Sulfate-Free Revitalizing Shampoo and Conditioner, and I noticed that it keeps my scalp hydrated, too.”

Aside from hyaluronic acid, other ingredients you can be on the lookout for are:

  1. Be gentle with application.

Come bath time, how you apply your scalp and hair care products is important, too. If you’ve cut your overexfoliation skin care habit loose, you need to do the same for your scalp. “Excessive scrubbing can irritate hair follicles, prematurely pull out hairs, and strip away too much oil, leading to either scalp dryness or an overproduction of oil,” cautions Dr. Quinio-Calayag.

“So instead of scrubbing, use your fingertips—not your nails—to gently massage your scalp while shampooing. This improves circulation,” she advises. To prevent irritation, application of conditioner should be limited to the tips of the hair until the mid-length—and never on the scalp.

  1. Lessen exposure to extreme temperatures.

“Exposing your scalp to steaming hot showers or freezing cold water can cause burns, irritation, and dryness. Instead, use lukewarm water when you shower,” says Dr. Quinio-Calayag. After showering, dab your hair dry with a clean, soft towel instead of rubbing it aggressively. 

Daily heat styling can also “dry out the hair and scalp, damage the hair shaft, and lead to breakage and split ends,” cautions Dr. Francisco-Pasion. “Blow drying hair when it is soaking wet can accelerate damage, because wet hair is more fragile and prone to breakage. To minimize heat damage, air dry hair first or blow dry damp hair rather than soaking wet hair.”

  1. Use appropriate styling tools and hairstyles.

“A wide-tooth comb is ideal for detangling,” says Dr. Quinio-Calayag. She also cautions against tight hairstyles, such as buns or ponytails, which can cause traction alopecia, or hair loss due to constant tension. “If you want to pamper your scalp, try massaging it gently for at least two minutes each day,” she suggests. “This supports follicle health and improves circulation.”

  1. Take a break from frequent coloring.

Dr. Francisco-Pasion advises caution when it comes to chemical treatments, noting that regular hair coloring, hair relaxing, and keratin treatments can weaken the hair, leaving it brittle and dull. “These procedures can also irritate the scalp,” she says. “Hair bleaching, in particular, damages the scalp and the hair’s outer cuticle, leading to hair drying and breakage.”

  1. Don’t skip sunscreen.

An aspect of scalp care that can get a huge boost from skinification is sun protection. Prolonged sun exposure increases the risk of skin cancer, particularly for those with thinning or balding hair. “Hair naturally provides some protection, but areas that are bald or thinning require extra care,” says Dr. Quinio-Calayag. She recommends wearing a hat or using sunscreen with at least SPF 30 on exposed areas.

The root of it all

“When it comes to scalp and hair care, less is more,” Dr. Quinio-Calayag concludes. “You don’t need an expensive or complicated routine—just be mindful of what your scalp needs.” She emphasizes the importance of understanding how various factors like genetics, environment, and hair products affect your scalp health. And when in doubt, she advises consulting a board-certified dermatologist. 

Skinification is not about adding complexity to your hair care routine, but about being more conscious of the essential role your scalp plays in the health of your hair. It’s a simple shift: treating your scalp with the same level of care you give your skin. With the right practices in place, you’ll be on your way to a healthier scalp—and, by extension, healthier hair.