Ask a makeup lover their must-have product, and there’s a good chance they’ll say blush. But what makes this rosy flush that mimics a natural blood rush so beloved? For blush enthusiasts, beyond just adding a flush of color, blush has the power to shape and enhance your features in ways you might not expect. That’s the idea behind the Blush Theory—a trend taking over social media that explores how different blush placements and shades can subtly transform your face.
To get an expert’s take, Allure Philippines spoke with Manila-based celebrity makeup artist Juan Sarte. With years of experience working with A-list clients, he breaks down why blush is more than just a pop of color, and how strategic application can make all the difference.
Is there truth to the blush theory?
According to Sarte: absolutely. The most common and foolproof blush placement is on the apples of the cheeks. This is why makeup artists usually ask you to smile wide before applying the product. “Normally, we’re used to putting it on the apples of the cheeks,” he says. “But if you move the blush to another place, it gives the illusion that it’s lifting.” For instance, if you want a more youthful look, try applying blush higher, just below the waterline. This technique creates the illusion of lifted, fresh-looking skin.
As a makeup artist, Sarte also considers his clients’ face shapes when determining blush placement. “The placement should complement a person’s face shape,” he says. For longer or oblong faces, he avoids angling the blush upward. Instead, he applies it horizontally in the middle of the face to “break” the length and create a shortening effect. For round faces, he prefers blush on the apples of the cheeks, inclining slightly upward toward the hairline. Meanwhile, for diamond-shaped faces, he places the blush slightly higher than the apples and blends it horizontally to enhance structure.
Blush vs. contour: What’s the difference?
Blush placement isn’t the only factor to consider. For Sarte, the color is just as important. While contour is typically what reshapes the face, certain blush shades can have a similar effect. “Contour is a shadow, blush is a color,” he explains.
“Blush, by the name itself, is actually you faking how you blush—the rush of blood to the face,” he says. Originally, it was used to restore warmth to the skin after applying foundation so the face wouldn’t look too pale. While blush usually comes in shades of pink, and lately, purple blush has been having a moment—Sarte believes red is still the best color if you’re aiming for a natural look.
“Usually, when you do makeup, you blend the contour and the blush together—the shadow and the color,” Sarte says. However, some blush shades have gray undertones, making them function similarly to contour.
Sarte notes that contour originated from the rise of photography and film. “In real life, you don’t really need contouring because it’s mostly for cameras,” he explains. “Photos are two-dimensional, so you add dimension with contour.”
With social media and high-resolution cameras, well-placed makeup has become more important. “That’s why contour became really popular a few years ago,” he adds. Blush, on the other hand, is a staple to make your face look “healthier” whether in real life or in pictures.
Blush mistakes? Not really
When asked about common blush mistakes, Sarte simply shrugs. For him, there’s no right or wrong way. “To each their own,” he says.
With years of experience working with A-list celebrities, Sarte does have a few favorite blush products. Among them:
- Kiko Milano Unlimited Blush: Known for its pigmented, velvety formula, this blush offers a buildable finish that comes in both matte and metallic options.
- Clinique Cheek Pop in Black Honey Pop: This blush comes with a cult following, delivering a buildable, vibrant, and natural-looking flush.
- Laura Mercier Blush Color Infusion: This sheer, weightless blush blends seamlessly for a soft, natural glow. It’s a top choice for creating a barely-there flush.
- Chanel Joues Contraste Powder Blush: Loved for its silky texture, long-lasting, and buildable coverage, this luxurious blush imparts just the right amount of color.
Laura Mercier Blush Color Infusion
Blush, without a doubt, is a staple in many of our beauty routines. While the Blush Theory highlights strategic application, Sarte reminds us that makeup is personal. Whether you prefer a classic cheek flush or a lifted effect, the key is to do what works for you.
So, will you be trying out the Blush Theory? Don’t overthink it! According to Sarte, there’s no wrong way—just plenty of ways to play and experiment.
