Issy Is Redefining Beauty Standards in the Philippines

Like many of us, Joel Andrade struggled to find a foundation that matched the brown skin he carries with pride. “I just never found my shade,” the co-founder and creative director of makeup brand Issy says matter-of-factly. “And then some brands would even do a universal line, parang, ‘Girl, in what universe is that my shade?’” 

When Issy was developing their Active Skin Tint, co-founder Jasmine Ang Chua told him: “Dapat ikaw meron din.” (“There should also be a shade for you.”)

There’s a shade for everyone 

It was a simple statement that moved Andrade. “When Jas and I started working together, she never told me, ‘Joel, wag shade mo, baka hindi bumenta,’” he shares. (“Let’s not do your shade. It might not sell.”) “She handles the finances, and at the end of the day, we could only produce what we could afford. And she was willing to take that risk. Little did we know we were opening this space where so many morenas felt underrepresented. Because no one was getting their shade.”

At present, Andrade and Chua are standing side by side at a desk, posing for Allure Philippines’ camera. Their dynamic is obvious: Andrade is the creative force behind the brand, while Chua is the business savant. Andrade is theatrical and expressive, while Chua is reserved and demure. Both their personas have greatly influenced their brand.

In recent years, Issy has burst onto the scene with a staggering range of shades for different Filipina skin tones, and a barrage of bold, arresting campaigns. They have gained widespread acclaim for their commitment to inclusivity, primarily from customers much like Andrade who have never been able to find the right foundation shade. To date, their Active Skin Tint, Skin Stick, and Skin Balm each offer 12 shades, and their Active Foundation boasts an astounding 27. Complementing their encompassing range and edgy campaigns is their signature futuristic packaging and the overall aesthetic of their new brick-and-mortar space, aptly called Space Issy.

Issy Active Skin Tint. Photo: Kieran Punay.

Dropping the “& Co”

But it wasn’t always like that. Issy was formerly known as Issy & Co. They launched in 2019, with an identity that Andrade describes as “not rocking the boat.” The brand was pretty, promising prettiness.

The pandemic halted their plans of selling in stores, which turned out to be a blessing in disguise. While other, more established brands were scrambling to set up their e-commerce during the lockdown, Issy & Co.’s products were already there online, waiting to be purchased by eager consumers. 

“In the first two years of Issy, you wouldn’t have been able to distinguish it from the competitors,” Andrade says. He cracks a smile. “But I think you can only lie to yourself for a time. Two years in, we started being more confident with the ideas that we had.”

The image eventually cracked. Little by little, the collections and visuals became more daring, until all that was left to change was the logo and the name. They dropped the “& Co” and just leaned fully into the opposite direction.  

On the path to radical inclusivity

A lot of this revolves around one of the company’s core values—radical inclusivity—which is deeply personal to Andrade. “If there is a spectrum of ‘conventionally beautiful,’ I was never part of that,” he says. “Maitim ako, mataba ako, bakla pa ako. (“I’m dark and big, and I’m also gay.”) I’ve always felt I was at the bottom of the barrel. It’s one thing to not feel seen, but it’s another thing for people to deny your existence. Kasi if you don’t see your skin shade there, you’ll feel like, ‘Walang tao katulad ko. I don’t exist.’”

Hence, their personnel in stores have been instructed to never use the words “nakakaputi” or “nakakapayat” (“whitening” or “slimming”) when describing looks or colors, and to instead say things like, “Maganda yung color na ‘yan sa iyo.” (“That color looks good on you.”) “It’s a lot of reframing,” he admits. “But we’ve gotten such a loyal following. They always say that Issy was the first brand that catered to them.”

At heart, Andrade is an artist, relishing the opportunity to express his creativity, to cater to others who feel like they’ve always been on the fringes. But at the end of the day, radical inclusivity also means catering to someone like Ang Chua, who doesn’t wear the crazy makeup looks that Issy has become known for. Ultimately, the brand is about products for everyone.

Andrade sums it up: “Here in the Philippines, beauty is pretty. But Issy is not interested in pretty. Issy is interested in beautiful. And beautiful can mean many different things to many different people.”

Photographers: Excel Panlaque (Issy), Kieran Punay (products).