Why Do Morenas Get More Dark Spots?
Dr. Francesca Sy-Alvarado explains the science behind hyperpigmentation—and what you can actually do about it.
Hyperpigmentation. For many morenas, it’s the most common (and most frustrating) skin concern. From dark spots that linger long after a pimple has healed, to stubborn melasma or post-waxing darkness, it often feels like any small irritation can leave a lasting mark.
But is it just our skin tone, or is there more to it?
We spoke with board-certified dermatologist Dr. Francesca Sy-Alvarado to understand why morenas are more prone to pigment issues—and how to treat them safely and effectively.
Meet the expert: Dr. Francesca Sy-Alvarado
Dr. Sy-Alvarado, a fellow of the Philippine Dermatological Society, brings a decade of experience in dermatology. After extensive training abroad in dermatologic surgery, lasers, and aesthetic dermatology, she applies international perspectives to her practice. Dr. Alvarado’s motto, “Work smart, not hard,” extends to skin care as she encourages using efficient and purposeful products. She advises, “Having a targeted skin care regimen with ingredients that are multi-purpose or [having] a single product that has multiple ingredients that address your concern is more effective than having a multitude of products that overlap with each other or do not support your goals.”
Why Does Hyperpigmentation Seem to Happen More to Morenas?
Aside from your beautiful, golden hue, darker skin has more melanin, and thus, built-in protection against the sun. According to Dr. Sy-Alvarado, higher melanin content gives morenas inherent sun protection, a lower risk for skin cancer, and makes effects of sun damage less obvious. Darker skin types also have a thicker dermis, meaning they are less prone to loose skin and to showing other signs of skin damage like wrinkling. “However,” Dr. Sy-Alvarado says, “morena skin is also more likely to experience pigment-related problems such as hyperpigmentation, or darkening, and hypopigmentation, or lightening of skin. It’s more prone as well as to scars and keloids when wounds are healing.”
Flexural hyperpigmentation, according to Dr. Sy-Alvarado, is darkening on certain areas in the body that bend or fold, such as the underarms or groin, caused by friction, hormones, or even irritation caused by hair removal. She goes on to explain that post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation is darkening that happens after an injury or any sort of inflammation. Melasma, on the other hand, is dark patches, often on the face, caused by genes, hormones or sun exposure. Morenas are more prone to all of these.
The Right Way to Treat Pigmentation—It’s Not About Whitening
“The safest way to address pigmentation concerns is to see a board-certified dermatologist to determine the cause, address it through targeted treatments like topical brighteners and procedures like chemical peels and pigment lasers, and to prevent further worsening of the condition,” says Dr. Sy-Alvarado. She stresses that a dermatologist is very knowledgeable on skin, hair and nail conditions, and is able to diagnose even possible underlying health problems, such as insulin resistance.
In terms of treatments, Dr. Sy-Alvarado explains that pigment lasers work by breaking down melanin, making skin tone appear more even. She cautions that it’s important to go to a doctor with experience in this area, since only certain types of lasers are considered safer for darker skin. Chemical peels, she says, work by removing surface-level melanin.
What About Glutathione?
The intravenous (IV) form of glutathione is not FDA-approved for skin lightening, Dr. Sy-Alvarado warns. “It’s actually only FDA-approved for patients undergoing chemotherapy.”
What Kind of Products Actually Help?
Dr. Sy-Alvarado advises choosing products that are FDA-approved. “I also discourage over-exfoliation with either chemical exfoliants or physical scrubs that mess with the skin barrier,” she says.
Instead, she says to look for products that have “lighteners targeting the production of melanin, like tyrosinase inhibitors or arbutin, combined with niacinamide and/or glycolic acid. You may also incorporate antioxidants like Vitamin C and E to neutralize free radicals caused by environmental factors.”
And don’t forget the sunscreen, with at least SPF 30, and to reapply every two hours. However, Dr. Sy-Alvarado recommends avoiding sun exposure completely when treating pigmentation. Exposure to ultraviolet rays triggers pigmentation, so it’s important to remove this exposure, especially when treating pigmentation,” she explains. She suggests adding physical barriers in addition to sunscreen, such as a hat, umbrella, or sunglasses.
What If I’ve Overdone It?
If all this advice came too late, and you’ve already turned to harsh whitening products or un-regulated whitening treatments, and they’ve made your pigmentation problems worse, don’t fret. “We can still return to our natural skin color if external factors are removed,” Dr. Sy-Alvarado explains, referring to those harsh products or treatments. Whitening products, she says, can actually irritate skin and cause inflammation, which only ends up lightening or darkening skin further. According to Dr. Sy-Alvarado, recovery is possible over time. “However, complications from overly aggressive treatments may be more difficult to manage and reverse, so go to a board-certified dermatologist with proper knowledge and experience.”
Parting Words From Our Expert
On a final note, Dr. Sy-Alvarado says that her best tip for morenas is to use sun protection, and choose skin care products wisely—those targeted for specific skin concerns, and that don’t damage the skin barrier. And remember, “any form of injury and inflammation leads to hyperpigmentation most of the time!” Make an extra effort to keep your skin healthy. As Dr. Sy-Alvarado says, “Morena skin glows best when it’s healthy!”
