In the Philippines, melanin has often been misunderstood—especially by those selling “whiter is better” beauty products. But it’s time to shift the narrative. Melanin isn’t something to erase; it’s something to understand and celebrate, especially for those with morena skin.

To help us decode what melanin really does (and doesn’t do), we asked board-certified dermatologist Dr. Ada Atilano-Bautista to break it all down—from why melanin-rich skin is more resilient to how to best care for it without risking damage or dullness.

Meet the expert: Dr. Ada Atilano-Bautista

Dr. Atilano-Bautista, the head dermatologist at PROFERO Ageless Aesthetics, is a fellow of the Philippine Dermatological Society, with more than 17 years of experience in both aesthetic and pathologic dermatology. Dr. Atilano-Bautista believes that understanding one’s unique skin situation is essential for achieving better skin outcomes.

What is melanin? 

Melanin. The word rolls off our tongue. You can say it, but do you know all about it? In a nutshell, the melanin in your body is what produces the pigment of your eye, hair and skin color. The more melanin you have, the darker the color of these body parts.

According to Dr. Atilano-Bautista, melanin, produced in the epidermis, is what determines our skin color. “Morena skin is found to have high levels of eumelanin, a brown-to-black pigment that is responsible for the warm and rich brown hue of morena skin. The eumelanin not only gives morena skin its radiant tone but also contributes to its built-in natural defense against UV rays. This is what protects morenas from sunburn and skin cancers.”

It turns out that people with darker skin tones have less photodamage and, in fact, look younger, and it’s the melanin, which is more evenly distributed and more powerful, that can take the credit for this. Dr. Atilano-Bautista adds, “Morena skin is known to have a thicker dermis and higher collagen content, which can contribute to preservation of skin elasticity and delay the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.” On the flipside, morena skin is also more reactive and sensitive, which, according to Dr. Atilano-Bautista, makes it more prone to hyperpigmentation, or the darkening of the skin in patches, even from minor injuries or inflammation.

Melanin as a warrior against skin cancer

If you’ve got darker skin, and therefore, more melanin, you’re luckier than others when it comes to skin cancer. According to Dr. Atilano-Bautista, fair skin is 70 times more likely to develop skin cancer than subjects with dark skin. “There is strong evidence that supports the photoprotective role of melanin against skin cancers,” she says. “However, having increased melanin production contributes to pigmentary disorders such as melasma, lentigines and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.”

This doesn’t mean morenas can skip the sunscreen, though! “We should still protect our skin with daily application of a broad-spectrum sunscreen with at least SPF 30,” Dr. Atilano-Bautista says. “Opt for tinted sunscreens containing iron oxide to shield against visible light, which can worsen pigmentation. Reapply sunscreen every two hours and wear hats and protective clothing.”

Other factors influence the production of melanin

Sun exposure, skin inflammation, hormonal changes and systemic disease and medications all have an effect on the melanin in our skin.

Dr. Atilano-Bautista explains that when exposed to UV rays, the skin produces more melanin as its first defense. It’s the melanin that absorbs the dangerous UV rays that can do serious skin damage, and in the process, gives you a tan.

Skin inflammation and hormones also affect the production of melanin. Dr. Atilano-Bautista says that morena skin is actually more reactive to inflammation and trauma, which makes it prone to darkening or hyperpigmentation, particularly after acne or any sort of skin injury. Hormones, on the other hand, influence the amount and distribution of melanin in the skin. If you’ve ever had skin darkening while pregnant, or if you’ve experienced changes in your skin color at certain points in your menstrual cycle, you can thank your hormones for that. There are also certain diseases and medications that can cause changes in melanin production.

The real deal on whitening beautiful brown skin

What ads and commercials won’t tell you is that lightening melanated skin comes with health concerns. Dr. Atilano-Bautista cautions against the use of whitening products and treatments, which all have varying effects and risks. Glutathione, in particular, is something to be wary of, and is something that Dr. Atilano-Bautista would not recommend. “Glutathione as a skin-lightening agent has limited evidence, and various safety concerns, and is not widely recommended,” she says. 

While Oral, topical, and intravenous forms of glutathione have been used in many countries, Dr. Atilano-Bautista points out that no regulations, such as well-defined doses or safe duration of administration, exist. “There are significant complications, including liver, kidney and neurologic damage, and the long-term effects remain controversial,” she adds.

Laser treatments, on the other hand, are used by dermatologists to address pigmentation concerns by targeting melanin. The side effects and risks, including skin darkening and lightening, scarring, uneven pigmentation and permanent skin damage still exist, though. Dr Atilano-Bautista stresses, “It’s important that laser treatments are customized according to skin type by board-certified dermatologists.”

Caring for melanin-rich skin

Dr. Atilano-Bautista prioritizes protection, hydration, and targeted care. Sunscreen with at least an SPF of 30, together with frequent reapplication is a must, despite melanin being a built-in form of protection against skin cancer.

Be mindful of the products you use as well. “Use mild, fragrance-free cleansers and moisturizers to prevent irritation, which can lead to dark spots. Morena skin is more reactive and prone to darkening, so use products with care and always introduce active ingredients gradually. Vitamin C, azelaic acid, and retinoids can help even out skin tone, but use these with the guidance of a board-certified dermatologist,” she shares.

Above all, Dr. Atilano-Bautista counsels morenas to love and enjoy their skin tone, and not to succumb to cultural pressure to whiten or lighten it. “Embrace the unique glow and vibrance of your morena complexion by focusing on enhancing your skin’s health and smoothening its texture,” she urges, “rather than lightening its tone.”

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