How to Treat Acne and Dark Spots on Morena Skin
Breakouts on brown skin need extra attention, especially post-acne.
Acne consistently tops the list of the most common skin concerns among Filipinos. But for many of us, the challenge doesn’t end with acne itself—it’s the aftermath that can be even more daunting. Morenas know this all too well.
Allure Philippines spoke with three board-certified dermatologists for their expert advice on managing acne on Filipina brown skin. The common concern they all agreed on? Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH).
“Dealing with morena skin requires a cautious approach due to the higher risk of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation,” explains Gaile Robredo-Vitas, MD, a board-certified dermatologist and medical director of DermHQ.
So, what exactly is PIH? According to the Philippine Dermatological Society (PDS), it’s a type of hyperpigmentation that develops after inflammation, often seen in conditions like acne, eczema, and injuries. It appears as dark patches in areas that were previously inflamed or red. Sound familiar? If you’re dealing with acne and the dark spots it leaves behind, here’s your guide to managing both, the morena way.
Early treatment makes the difference.
The sooner you address acne, the better. Think of it as prevention’s close cousin. “It’s best to control acne breakouts with proper anti-acne medication, while treating acne marks early,” advises board-certified dermatologist Francesca Sy-Alvarado, MD, from QuAD Clinic. Early and proper intervention helps prevent those red and brown spots from turning into long-lasting scars and dark spots.
Board-certified dermatologist Anna Palabyab-Rufino, MD, from BeautiqueMD adds that immediate management also lessens the severity of acne and its long-term effects. It’s all about nipping the issue in the bud—but that doesn’t mean you should go around popping zits. Resist the urge, especially if you’re a morena, because it can lead to worse scarring and even more PIH. The PDS backs this up: “The best way to avoid scarring is to treat acne early and avoid picking on your skin.”
Opt for gentle, yet targeted skin care
Dr. Vitas recommends products with soap-free cleansers, exfoliants, antioxidants, tyrosinase inhibitors, retinoids, and moisturizers. These ingredients help target and treat acne without compromising your skin’s barrier.
For hyperpigmentation that follows acne, Dr. Alvarado recommends addressing pigmentation by targeting various steps in the melanin production process. “It would be great to look for a well-formulated product targeting different mechanisms in the production of melanin,” she advises. Tyrosinase inhibitors like arbutin, combined with niacinamide and/or glycolic acid, are good examples, according to the dermatologist. “You may also incorporate antioxidants like vitamin C and E into your skincare routine to neutralize free radicals caused by environmental factors,” she adds.
Beauty of Joson Glow Deep Serum Rice Alpha-Arbutin
For tyrosinase inhibitors, Beauty of Joseon Glow Deep Serum, formulated with arbutin to help fade hyperpigmentation, is a great option, while Neostrata Illuminating Serum, another potent pick, combines acetyl glucosamine, THD ascorbate, licorice, and 4-butylresorcinol to to help reduce the appearance of dark spots.
When it comes to vitamin C, Kiehl’s Powerful Strength Line Reducing Concentrate, which contains 10.5 percent L-ascorbic acid, 2 percent ascorbyl glucoside, and hyaluronic acid, is an excellent choice for brightening and protecting the skin from oxidative stress.
Sun protection is non-negotiable
Sun exposure can make dark spots even darker, so sun protection is crucial. But don’t worry, you don’t have to become a vampire. You just need sunscreen (with at least SPF 30). “I know morenas enjoy being under the sun as much as anybody else, but using the right kind and amount of sun protection with proper reapplication is very important,” Dr. Rufino says.
Dr. Vitas also advises against prolonged sun exposure and recommends daily sun protection to prevent hyperpigmentation and other skin issues. Dr. Alvarado, meanwhile, specifically suggests avoiding direct sunlight between 10:00 a.m. and 3:00 p.m. and using tinted sunscreens with iron oxides for added protection against visible light, which can also trigger pigmentation in darker skin tones.
Options like Ultraviolette Daydream Screen Tinted Veil SPF 50+, a hybrid chemical-physical sunscreen with iron oxides, offer sun protection with the added benefit of medium coverage, making it a potential alternative to foundation. Heliocare Pigment Solution Fluid SPF 50+, which contains the high-performing Tinosorb A2B filter, iron oxides, niacinamide, and ellagic acid, also helps prevent and reduce pigmentation while protecting against UV rays.
Consult a dermatologist
Let’s face it—sometimes, we need the pros. “Consult an expert in skin such as a dermatologist to have a proper assessment and tailored recommendations,” says Dr. Alvarado. Experts can help you navigate the best treatments for your specific skin needs, ensuring your morena complexion stays as healthy as possible.
Remember, skin color is just one factor in managing acne. Every skin is different, so what works for one person might not work for you. “A patient’s skin tone is just one of the many other factors we consider for patients no matter what the problem may be,” Dr. Rufino explains. Acne and dark spots might be a pain, but with the right approach, your morena skin can thrive. Stay patient, stay protected, and let your brown skin glow.
